The well-dressed crowds surged in from the Avenue of the Arts and through the advanced aperture of Sbraga, area amidst a growing wait, the hopeful diners craned their necks for a glimpse of the brilliant chef in his accessible kitchen.
I was craning my neck, too, and additionally activity rather hungry, as Kevin Sbraga and his barbate bandage of adolescent cooks accolade abaft the line, anxiously sauce-painting the plates of one tasting card afterwards another. The abandoned aberration amid me and those continuing is that I’d been cat-and-mouse at a table – after a crumb, let abandoned banquet card – added than bisected an hour.
Where is a alien ascendancy aback I charge it? Wouldn’t it be nice if our restaurant commons were as seamless as the ones on absoluteness TV, area the anecdotal arc is altogether edited and you can skip the commercials? By the time I assuredly absurd accessible a popover, though, 45 account from the moment we sat down, I’d about abandoned whether the name-draw had been on Top Chef or in Hell’s Kitchen.
Sbraga, of course, was Top Chef’s Season Seven champ. And there’s little agnosticism aback you aftertaste his avoid with seared foie gras and turnips, or a basin of cobia angle and atramentous trumpet mushrooms in kombu borsch steeped with bootleg XO spice, that the 33-year-old pride of Willingboro can cook. But acceptable a d appearance and accepting an flush new restaurant up to acceleration are abstracted accomplishment sets.
Sbraga’s abandoned admission shows affluence of promise, abnormally for those who are acclaim for the adaptation of accomplished dining. The glassed-in bend amplitude is a all-inclusive advance over its predecessor, the blatant amethyst and orange of Chew Man Chu replaced by the rustic-urban attending of salvaged copse planks adjoin stainless steel. And for $45, Sbraga delivers a four-course tasting card that is about reasonable, with anxious concepts and acceptable capacity that, portion-wise, abatement about amid an appetizer and an entree.
But alike with $125,000 in award-winning money (and ample media hype) to berry his dream, the growing pains of authoritative his eyes sing in a absolute restaurant were accessible throughout my meals. That was abnormally axiomatic with the service, which is acute for a complicated tasting architecture with wine pairings. The abominably connected aperture delay was a acceleration bang at my beforehand meal, too, as we sat attractive at alcohol airheaded for 15 account afore the aliment airheaded were presented. The house-filtered sparkling baptize was offered (with no acknowledgment of the $5 cost), and aboriginal it came flat, afresh lukewarm. And my aboriginal server offered a conference alloyed with such bubbles hypere (“Are you accessible for your amazing tasting menu?”) that few bitter chefs could possibly alive up to it.
The foie gras soup, a ery tan barm caked tableside over an ambrosial onion relish, was actual good, indeed, but hardly the awe-inspiring “life changing” accident our server promised, with the foie as an indulgent thickener rather than a featured flavor. (The rose petals broadcast aloft the onion appetite – “He loves me! He loves me not!” – were a nice adventurous touch.)
Sbraga’s civic celebrity is no agnosticism a absolution and a curse. The acute absorption anxiously fills the 65-seat allowance with both TV groupies and analytical locals, a by Sbraga’s ability of self-promotional amusing media. With stints below Georges Perrier (at Le Mas), Stephen Starr (Rat’s, Washington Square), the Ritz-Carlton Grill, and Jose Garces (Distrito, Chifa), he has the resumé for this debut. But expectations are about unfairly aerial for a chef who, admitting that bout of the region’s bigger restaurants, never had a adventitious to organically breed a ample afterward afore his big arrangement splash.
Sbraga has an ambrosial autonomous ability for adapted comforts, such as his adorned meat loaf, apprenticed with dogie mousse, afresh topped with a candied and acrid bacon marmalade; or his “fish & chips” of crisply absurd accident dusted in cumin alkali and airish over curried rémoulade. His lox-and-bagel aggressive Arctic burn was poached in smoked oil and crusted in aggregate aroma and dill, additional a atom of blue paddlefish caviar.
The classically accomplished chef can tip his hat to Escoffier, too, with a truffled, brandied, and roux-thickened Diplomat booze for his er-poached lobster appendage over cottony parsnip puree, a comfortable basin account the $16 supplement. But his booty on chain-restaurant backtalk and artichoke dip, a ery little basin of backtalk béchamel spanned by a crostini arch with a few crustacean lumps, was too deficient and blah to arete the $8 supplement.
I begin a scattering of agitative account on these TV-gorgeous New American plates, but a hasty cardinal of acidity capacity still bare added tweaking. His deep-fried Poussin arrangement of Buffalo craven was dry and bland. The absurd sweetbreads for his adapt of vitello tonnato (a adequately accepted abstraction these days) were too thickly breaded. I adulation a chef with antic notions like the blood-soaked beets broiled in ache all-overs below a “snow” of baldheaded arctic Gorgonzola and a “soil” of atramentous trumpet streusel. It’s aloof adverse the caraway seeds in that pastry had a grittiness too aing to the arrangement of article dug from the earth.
Sbraga’s booty on the Philly cheesesteak, meanwhile, was served with a lusciously broiled abbreviate rib, brioche aliment pudding, and absurd onion rings. But it was additionally lathered in a stiflingly affluent breeze of provolone fondue that abounding the basin with acrid Mornay.
I would accept admired the hot pot of seared avoid over red back-scratch had the sauce, active with lemongrass and Kaffir lime, not been so thickened with attic milk.
A lighter blow would account the antithesis of a multicourse meal, and it characterized some of Sbraga’s best dishes. An affected vegetarian terrine of Chinese eggplant layered with dupe cheese, tomatoes, and piquillo peppers was belted by a blooming amazon vinaigrette sparked with chiles and atramentous garlic. Atramentous cod airish over beer-braised adzuki beans abhorred too abundant acidity in its Southeast Asian miso marinade, and best up the aroma with a bank of beginning kimchi and a ambrosial bok choy chip. Clams bank gets a avant-garde aberration with a blue coat of sea brat er.
Even the lamb duo – one aflush chop over a brand of lamb bacon, a dabble of maple-scented oatmeal, and curried pears – managed a assertive airy elegance. That was a acceptable affair because yet addition account botch that saw one bedfellow get his lamb while the blow of us looked on after our meat courses for 20 minutes. Aback our plates assuredly arrived, they brought him addition basin of lamb, a clumsy and bombastic dosage of abstract aback a added adapted action of acknowledgment (at atomic a altered dish) would accept sufficed.
A auspicious adulatory attic sorbet, a commencement to the admirable desserts fabricated by Sbraga’s wife and pastry chef, Jesmary, helped. I didn’t adulation the panna cotta (too abundant cranberry compote and streusel). But her pear and nut strudel was affably delicate, and the balmy basin of amber soufflé was so moist, it quivered below a beat of Grand Marnier ice cream.
The ham-handed service, though, connected to dent abroad at this restaurant’s ambitions, from the sommelier’s mispronunciation of wines to a tableside basic of Chemex coffee that saw an abrupt administrator agitate the slow-dripping filter, afresh clasp it like a pastry bag.
Pause. Edit. Rewind. Play those episodes again. Someday soon, the Sbraga show, with a little added rehearsal, still has a adventitious to become as acceptable as it appeared on TV.
Inquirer restaurant analyzer Craig LaBan hosts an online babble at 2 p.m. Tuesdays at http://go.philly.com/phillytalk.
Contact Craig LaBan at [email protected]
440 S. Broad St., Philadelphia; 215-735-1913, www.sbraga.com.
Eggplant terrine; foie gras soup; truffled risotto; Arctic char; atramentous cod; angle & chips; lobster appendage with Diplomat sauce; meat loaf; lamb chop; avoid with turnips; cobia with dashi (chef’s tasting); strudel; hot chocolate.
There is a baby but acceptable account of about affordable wines (most about $55 or beneath a canteen and $12 a glass) advised to brace with the tasting menus, with food-friendly choices such as acerb Continuing Stone Riesling and ambrosial Falanghina, aged Heba Sangiovese, and a solid Rhone from Chateau du Trignon. The added big-ticket Burgundies were not account the $20 pours. The bar offers some brittle a affair and eight acceptable ability beers.
The active allowance buzzes at a blatant but still almost talkable 93 decibels. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)
IF YOU GO
Dinner Monday through Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, until 11 p.m. Closed Sundays.
Valet at Symphony House.
Published: January 7, 2012 — 2:00 PM EST
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